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About Yuma Peels

“Yuma Peels” TM Chemical peelings

Chemical peeling is considered to be the most widely studied, historically justified, and effective procedure in dermatocosmetology. Today different acids are applied within a cosmetologist practice, as well as combinations thereof to solve not only aesthetical problems, but also to correct serious skin diseases.

General information. What the cosmetologist is supposed to know.

  • Peeling – Eng. to peel – take off the shell, skin, husk; clean.
  • Chemical peeling is a procedure consisting in application of a chemical agent with the aim of inducing superficial controlled skin damage.
  • In other words chemical peeling is a “dosed skin burn”.

Chemical peeling aims

1.Stimulate the basal layer cell proliferation by the means of exfoliation of the keratinized epidermis cells. In other words “renew” the skin (Eng. to peel – take off the shell, skin, husk; clean).

2. Use certain features of the acids for correction of cosmetic deficiencies, dermatologic, and skin problems.

3. Mobilize the protective and regenerative functions of the skin using the stressful effect of acids.

Chemical agent:

The most frequently used acids are hydroxy acids (AHA and BHA), trichloracetic acid, proteolytic enzymes. The deciding aspects for the exposure depth of the chemical agent:
1. рН level (acid-base balance), the lower it is, the more irritating is the effect of the agent
2. Concentration: the higher it is, the deeper the agent penetrates.


By penetration the chemical peeling is subdivided into three groups:

Superficial Within stratum corneum
Medium Within the living cells layer of epidermis up to the basement membrane
Deep With destruction of basement membrane up to papillary dermis and reticular dermis

! The chemical peeling procedure must be carried out by dermatocosmetologists only.

! The distribution of preparations for at-home use is strongly forbidden.

! The cosmetologist should never leave the patient alone in the room during the procedure.


General recommendations for the patients before peeling:

The pre-peeling preparation consists in using of cosmetic products containing the chemical agent (alpha-hydroxy acids) in low concentrations (below 10%).
The pre-peeling preparation may be recommended 1-4 weeks before the procedure and depending on the preparation chosen and the condition of the patient’s skin.


The aims of the pre-peeling preparation:

  • Adapt the skin to the future procedure
  • Decrease the possible side effects risk
  • Detect intolerance of the active substance
  • Thin, smoothen the skin relief for even application and penetration of the preparation
  • Activate the regenerative abilities of the skin

IT IS ADVISABLE!

You should examine the patient before the procedure and gather the patient’s medical history.
Pay attention to the following:

  • Presence of herpes
  • Liability to keloids
  • Administration of isotretinoin

The chemical agent is applied on the face in the following order:

Forehead - chin – cheek-bones – peroral area - nose

The neutralizer is applied in reverse order:

Nose - peroral area – cheek-bones – chin - forehead

General patient recommendations after the peeling:

The post-peeling care includes skin care directly after the procedure

The tasks and aims of the post-peeling care are as follows:

  • Provide intensive moisturising of the skin;
  • Provide UV-protection of the skin;
  • Provide the skin protection from the adverse environmental conditions;
  • Decrease the inflammation;
  • Avoid post-traumatic skin pigmentation;
  • Accelerate regeneration and healing process

The post-peeling care is assigned by the cosmetologist depending on the type of peeling performed and the corresponding skin reaction thereof.

Attention! We recommend:

  • Use the decorative cosmetics 30-40 minutes after the procedure.
  • Do not use cleaners, scrubs with abrasive particles during the peeling course;
  • Do not remove the exfoliated skin by yourself;
  • Postpone visiting of saunas, pools, and solariums for at least 14 days;
  • Postpone visiting the countries with intensive solar radiation;
  • The face should be depilated at least two weeks before the beginning of the course.

Azelaic-salicylic peeling рН 2,1
Azelaic acid content - 20%,
Salicylic - 20%

INCI: Alcohol, Azelaic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Propylene Glycol, PEG-40, Glycerine, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Sodium Benzoate

Azelaic-salicylic peeling is successfully applied for correction of aesthetic and dermatological skin problems. Each of these acids is used in cosmetology separately, but being combined these substances show a powerful therapeutic effect.

Derma Clean peeling efficiency was registered concerning the following problems:

  • Chloasmas
  • Acne vulgaris in active form
  • Rosacea (papulopustular form)
  • Greasy skin, seborrhoea, seborrheic dermatitis
  • Hyper-pigmentation after mechanical wounding (post-acne hyper-pigmentation)
  • Age-related changes of facial skin

Derma Clean is well tolerated by the patients. During the procedure the patient may have a sense of discomfort manifested as a temporary burning, irritation, and erythema.

Contra-indications:

  • Idiosyncrasy of azelaic and salicylic acids
  • Active manifestation of skin virus infections (herpes, molluscum, verrucas)
  • Excessive insolation

Recommended frequency of sessions: 5-6 procedures with 10 days interval.

Derma Clean peeling has the following actions and effects:

Comedolytic and antikeratinizing effect

It slows down the proliferation processes and accelerates the processes of terminal keratinocytes differentiation. Does not induce dryness and irritation.

Anti-inflammatory effect

In the presence of azelaic acid the concentration of pro-inflammatory mediators in the area of inflammation decreases. The inflammatory process in skin is also inhibited by the means of free radical formation inhibition and binding of the active forms of oxygen.

Antibacterial effect

Derma Clean peeling has a bactericidal and bacteriostatic effect as related to Propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis due to inhibiting of the microbe’s cell wall protein secretion. And what’s more important, this peeling does not induce bacterial resistance.

Sebo-regulating action

The lipophily of salicylic and azelaic acids allows to influence the sebocytes directly and inhibit their activity. At that the azelaic acid reduces the activity of 5-alfa-reductase.

Whitening effect

It is provided owing to the acids influencing the tyrosinase in melanocytes.

Delicate Peel

рН = 1,8,
Mandelic acid 40%,

INCI: Mandelic Acid, Isopropyl Alcohol, Aqua, Ethoxydiglycol, Triethanolamine, Hydroxypropylcellulose.

Graduality and softness of action are the basic features of this peeling. Mandelic peeling is intended first of all for the patients with sensitive type of skin. A soft mode of action of this peeling is provided due to the fact that mandelic acid molecule (phenyl-glycolic acid) has quite an impressive weight. It penetrates the skin slower and more even, at that offering the same effect as the other alphahydroxy acids.

Delicate peeling efficiency was registered concerning the following problems:

  • Hyper-pigmentation: melasma, post-inflammatory pigmentation, lentigos.
  • Keratolytic effect.
  • Age-related changes of skin.
  • Sensitive skin.

Mandelic peeling SOFTPEEL is a soft peeling with a comfortable rehabilitation period, offering a prolonged visible effect. Almond is a symbol of rebirth, carefulness, and sophistication!

Contra-indications:

  • Idiosyncrasy of mandelic acid
  • Active manifestation of skin virus infections (herpes, molluscum, verrucas)
  • Excessive insolation

Recommended frequency of sessions: 7-8 procedures with 8 days interval.

Delicate peeling has the following actions and effects:

Restructuring effect

Mandelic acid can decrease the skin рН, and therefore it influences the enzyme activity contained in the corneal layer. Various pathological skin conditions, environmental influences, use of low-quality cosmetic products lead to changes in the acid mantle of the skin, and therefore in the whole skin barrier.

Whitening action

It inhibits the melanogenesis process, blocks tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related TRP protein, and takes part in epidermolysis and melanin destruction in the basal layer.

Moisturizing effect

Increases the skin humidity owing to stimulation of mucopolysaccharide synthesis, especially glucosaminoglycans, and what’s important, it lasts for a month.

Lacti Derm

Lactic peeling рН 1,4,
lactic acid content - 70%

INCI: Lactic Acid, Propylene Glycol, PEG-40, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose.

Lactic acid (alfa-hydroxypropanoic) is an active basis for a lot of cosmetic and de-pigmenting mediums for skin. In the history of skin care in many countries sour milk was used for facial skin, body and hair care. In Lacti Derm peeling a biologically important for the living creatures lactic acid of L –form is used, absolutely physiologic for the human skin. This form of the lactic acid is one of the components of the natural moisturizing factor, NMF.

It is recommended in the following cases:

  • dry, dull, and dehydrated skin;
  • prevention of ageing, wrinkles (especially lines); photo-ageing;
  • acne and post-acne, after long-term medicinal treatment;
  • for hyper-sensitive skin;
  • sagginess, skin atonia;

Recommended frequency of sessions: 7-8 procedures with 8 days interval

Lacti Derm peeling has the following actions and effects:

Moisturizing effect

The natural moisturizing factor is localized only in the corneal layer, it is concentrated around corneocytes, and forms an additional water coat. Aside from the lactic acid (10%) NMF also contains free amino acids (about 48%) and derivative thereof — pyroglutamic acid (10%), as well as urea (about 8%) and non-organic ions (5%), such as potassium, sodium, and calcium. These are low-molecular substances with small molecules, accumulating and binding water even in a relatively low atmospheric humidity.

Exfoliating activity

When a concentrated solution of lactic acid is used, the lactic acid molecule rapidly penetrates the corneal layer, keeps and attracts water. As a result of water accumulation in the intercellular spaces the binds between the corneocytes weaken, and consequently exfoliation occurs.

Lightening effect

inhibits the melanin synthesis by the way of direct inhibition of tyrosinase. Increases penetration of other whitening substances (uric acid, ubiquinon). Directly induces cell change improving the appearance of hyper-pigmentation and hyperkeratosis.

Anti-oxidant activity

Lactic acid stimulates the ceramides bio-synthesis in the granular layer, and improves the lipid barrier build-up process in the lower layers of the corneal layer, therefore reinforcing the skin barrier properties. Thus, if the sensitive skin usually has a weakened barrier, such a physiologic “reinforcement” of the barrier function will be very useful.

Pyruvic-peel

рН = 0,8,
pyruvic acid, 50%
lactic acid 5%

INCI: Pyruvic Acid, Aqua, Triethanolamine, Lactic Acid.

The basic active substance of the peeling is pyruvic acid (alfa-ketopropionic) acid, playing a key role in the metabolic processes of our body, and being the end metabolic product of glucose in the glycolysis process; it takes part in the Krebs cycle. This acid is of exceptional interest to the aestheticians for depending on the method of peeling superficial or superficial-medium influence of the acid on skin can be achieved. Considering the depth of exposure the pyruvic acid surpasses the glycolic peeling and can be compared to the trichloracetic. (ТСН).

Pyruvic-peel peeling efficiency was registered concerning the following problems:

  • Moderate photo-ageing, lines and deep.
  • Skin elasticity decrease.
  • Myperkeratosis.
  • Seborrhoeic dermatitis, comedone-pustular forms of acne.
  • Hyper pigmentation.
  • Rosacea, rosacea complicated with Demodex.
  • Ingrown hairs problem.
  • Cicatrices, striae.

Contra-indications:

  • Idiosyncrasy of pyruvic acid
  • Active manifestation of skin virus infections (herpes, molluscum, verrucas)
  • Excessive insolation, suntan
  • Bronchial asthma, bronchial spasms (taking into account the strong odour of the acid)
  • Pregnancy, breastfeeding

Applying this peeling a strict, determined programme of performing must be adhered adapted for each patients individually.

Recommended frequency of sessions:
superficial: 6-8 procedures with 8 to 14 days interval
superficial-medium: 5-6 procedures with a minimum 11 days interval.

The presence of exfoliation in the processed areas, essential preservation of forming crusts which should not be removed by the patient his or herself is typical of this peeling.

Pyruvic-peel peeling has the following actions and effects:

Exfoliating activity

High lipophily level and small size of the molecule of pyruvic acid allow penetrating the epidermal barrier rapidly and deeply, and accelerating the processes of terminal keratinocytes differentiation.

Moisturizing effect

Getting into the skin the pyruvic acid decomposes into tartaric and lactic acids. In its turn, the lactic acid contained in the natural moisturizing factor has a deep moisturizing effect due to water accumulation in the intercellular space.

Rejuvenating effect

Due to the stimulation of the fibroblasts the glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis is increased. As a result of the acid influencing the skin, activation of the skin protection systems and strengthening of the skin cell reparative activity takes place.